Malaga moments in histories and stories.

Malaga is a city overlaid by the first invasion by Phonecians and today by tourists from all corners of Europe and the world. 

It’s a city that has its neighbours in Europe and Africa that you can see on a clear day. An outpost of Spain and a strong connection to Malaga is Ceuta a Spanish colony ‘in’ Morocco. A ship departs Malaga weekly on its nine hour trip. 

It’s a rich city culturally, socially, religiously, geographically, archaeologically and artistically. The city discovered its Roman amphitheatre late and built over it with a Cultural Museum displaying some of its antiquity. It was dubbed by locals the Uncultural Museum. It was demolished in the 1990’s to allow the amphitheatre to be seen by passerbys. 

Art plays a big part in the city and so too does Picasso who was born in Malaga but at the age of 10 left for other places and of course Paris. But why have history get in the way of celebrating life through art;  its influence on Malaga is palpable in all the museums visited. 

 It’s a car free city and therefore a people free  city, free to wander the clean, shining ‘streepaths’ and narrow laneways. It’s a city with the overpowering Alcazaba hanging over the sea and the city but no longer wishing to keep the invaders out but instead invite them in. 

Pedro, our very friendly, humorous, ironic and sardonic (all in one Spaniard) expanded on the city’s history in a 2 hour tour walk. With its focus on the fortress’ qualities built in the 11th century by the Muslim-ruled Al-Andalus headed almost lyrically on its darkness. 

The steep inclines leading to multiple archways with their cedar termite resistant doors covered in iron prevented  fire bombing by the Christian invaders. Together  with the twists and turns of stairs and pathways they created an impenetrable (almost) fortress for the palace inhabitants perched on top. Pedro’s eye for detail and maybe some largesse for storytelling was captivating. So much history, so much killing, so much beautiful tiling and water features and the orange marmalade trees for the English! 

Once the sea lapped the battlements providing more advantages for the fortress occupiers.  But the sea has been turned back and reclaimed as a harbour and playground. It’s a docklands that has kept its docks but has now the aptly brand named, Centre Pompidou Malaga, markets plus cafes, bars and restaurants to add to both the sense of work and living.  

 

It’s peopled! Malaga has many languages but Spanish rules the shops, streets and laneways. Whilst the siesta may have evaporated due to the tourist’s appetite for consuming food and clothing, dinners are held late into the evening. At least somethings are sacrosanct. The food offerings are mixed due to global appetites but tappas dominate as they should. 

We departed Malaga and the old town through the streets and laneways manoeuvring our Fiat through the buzzing and bustling crowds on their tours in search of the Malaga experience. The sun shines brightly along with the pavements. We take with us many experiences and stories of a City captured by histories but seeking its future in a changing and challenging world.